White gold, emerald cabochon, diamonds, signed, circa 1970

 Elisabeth Kodré-Defner, known as Gu-Defner, is an Austrian artist, born in Vienna in 1937. A graduate of the Kunst Academy in Vienna, she shares her studio with her husband, also a goldsmith, Helfried Kodré. His work, represented in the greatest European museums, has also been awarded numerous prizes including the Diamond International Award in 1970. Expert in lost wax casting, this ring, evocative of an eye or a female genital, is the perfect illustration.
 The design of his jewelry is influenced by Art Nouveau, particularly René Lalique, even if the design is nevertheless perfectly contemporary. Her jewelry creation reflects her natural sense for the forms of nature, from which she uses the leaves which she molds then chisels, while recomposing them to give them the desired shape. She finally enhances them with diamonds and precious stones in clusters or cabochons. His later work includes animal forms, especially shells and beetles, thus continuing his love of nature.